Barb-Free: The Sexy Waltz Worm

Competition nymph patterns are made for three things: sinking fast, being easy to tie, and most importantly catching fish. This fly is known as the Sexy Waltz Worm, which is derived from a very basic pattern developed by Walt Young in the late 1980's. Walt Young's stellar creation was tied on a basic hook, with no bead, ribbing, or hot spot. Over the years competition anglers have tweaked this pattern to produce fish in the best and worst conditions. Loren Williams added some things to the original, creating the Sexy Waltz Worm. To see how Loren ties this deadly pattern click here.

I think I speak for all of us in saying that this fly produces in many different situations and locations. Some of us have found success with Loren's creation in places ranging from Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Colorado, Montana, New York, and New Jersey. I find it especially effective when the water is slightly off color or when there are stocked fish roaming around, but it has its time and place in clear water over fish of all backgrounds.

Most competition anchor (bottom bouncing) flies are tied on jig hooks to avoid snagging rocks and debris. Here a size 14 Fulling Mill jig hook and a TroutLegend 3.0mm Tungsten bead are used.

As far as thread goes, it makes the most sense to use whatever color you want your hot spot to be, I prefer UTC 70 denier in Fluorescent Chartreuse or Orange.

Firmly secure the beaded hook in your vise. Make sure that you put the bead on small hole first. If you wish to add additional weight, lead wire or tape could be used.

Start your thread behind the bead and wind it back to the hook point.

Silver Metallic Sulky is used as the rib. For those unfamiliar with the product, think flat crystal flash that doesn't break or stretch. This can be found at most craft stores or at Kevin Compton's Performance Flies.

Snip off 4-5 inches of Sulky and affix it to the near side of the hook.

Plain Hare's Ear dubbing is used to form the body, but any natural buggy fur will work well.

Create a 4-5 inch tapered dubbing noodle on your thread. Don't over-dub, you can always add more if needed.

Wind the dubbing towards the bead, create a "cigar" shaped taper. Leave the dubbing buggy.

Wrap the Sulky up the fly in spiral wraps.

Apply a whip finish to build up a hot spot and finish your fly. Then snip your thread off close.

These next steps are optional, but I believe that the aid the longevity of this fly.